I have a 2003 986 with 40 k , within the last few months it’s developed a dollar bill size oil leak on the passenger side rear near the rear drive axel . The leak only appears after driving at higher rpm’s . If it just sits , and , or runs at lower rpm’s , no leak . I have had it up on jack stands and can not find where it’s leaking from . Dust plate removed . Not the oil fill pipe . Not the air/oil separator . My question is valve covers or gasket . Not sure where to look for that gasket . Car runs great , recent oil change , cut open oil filter - very clean .

I got this wierd issue, its a beeping coming from the area of the clutch pedle, its a speakers somewhere for sure. its not the alarm i already unhooked that and its still there, radio out no change.

Perhaps something aftermarket? GPS tracker perhaps? i am going nuts.

Video: https://youtu.be/BpZqm48LKyI?si=0iguRyu0PM96n6eK

Need “sail” panel for LHD and the entire driver’s side wheel well shroud.

Don’t really need the mirror adjustment switch.

1998 986

Thanks.

Hi All
My 2000 986 S had a new roof installed (rear glass window) before I bought the car. However, I have noticed these gaps and was hoping someone could tell me how to fix them?
I have no elastic to trim or replace and I cannot see any method for adjusting the hard plastic, so any advice would be appreciated. Note, it is on both sides.

Does anybody know what is involved in retrofitting power mirrors to my manual mirror 986?

It would be really convenient to have these as the mirrors are the only things we need to adjust between myself and my wife. Seat, steering wheel etc are good for both of us. My current manual mirrors are hard to adjust (do seem to have a lot of play in them and / or stickyness) and as usual the passenger side is fiddly to adjust from the drivers seat.

Mainly looking at things involved in wiring (inside the door, through the car) and whether the standard mirror mounts etc can be used still.

Completely lost at this point so would really appreciate any help or guidance. Thank you!


2001 Boxster S, driver memory seat completely dead. All seat motors stopped at once.

The driver’s seat has full memory. Recently I reprogrammed the seat memory so position 1 is associated with the key/remote. A couple days later, the seat ended up in an odd position and stopped moving entirely.

Current symptoms:

* Driver seat does not move in any direction.
* The seat adjustment levers still produce audible clicks/relay sounds when pressed.
* The memory system is at least partly alive (?) as the mirrors still adjust/recall.
* Passenger seat works normally.
* All relevant seat fuses tested at roughly 12.5 V on both sides.
* I removed the seat cushion for access.
* Identified the memory-seat module connector block:
* #1–4 = individual seat motor outputs
* #5 = seat adjustment switch input
* #6 = main power supply
* #7 = large white memory/mirror/key-related connector
* Unplugged and reseated #6 main power with the battery disconnected. No change.
* I also unplugged/reseated the large #7 white connector. No change.
* I disconnected/reconnected the car battery to fully reset the module. No change.
* Manual fore/aft emergency adjustment described in the owner’s manual does not appear to exist on my particular seat motor; the motor end is just flat metal with no accessible hex socket.
* I have not yet direct-powered an individual motor.
* Since every motor stopped simultaneously, I’m suspecting either:
* loss of the common high-current motor feed/ground,
* failed internal main relay/output stage in the memory module,
* or some other common module fault rather than multiple motors failing together.

Main questions:

1. Has anyone seen a 986 memory-seat module fail this way, ie relay clicks but no motor output on any axis?
2. What is the best way to test the high-current supply at connector #6 under load?
3. Can I safely direct-power the fore/aft motor through connector #4 to confirm the motor/mechanism itself is good?
4. Is there any known interaction with key-memory programming that can leave the module in a locked/fault state?

I've done a bunch of searching but haven't found a definitive answer. I was at the track last Thursday and after my very first session (of course) it was running really rough. I checked the codes and I had one for bank 1 intake deviation or something like that (I was a bit flustered and didn't make note of it before I cleared it). It was cleared but still running really poorly at idle, but just driving it normally was ok. I checked the codes again and had a bunch of misfires, but not the bank 1 error. When I checked cam deviation bank 1 was at 17 and bank 2 was -0.2. I checked the wiring to the solenoid and unplugged and replugged it and made it back home. Last night I checked the Ohms and it checked out ok, and I also put 12V to the plug and it would click, but just a 'light' click. I did the same on bank 2 and the sound was distinctly different, it sounded like it went in and came back out, as I would expect. I took the solenoid out and when I apply 12V I get this Does that look like correct operation? And if so, I guess I'm pulling the actuator to see if the plunger is stuck?

Looks like age finally caught up to mine. Two tabs on one grill, and one on the other grill are now broken. Has anyone repaired these with a little ingenuity? I'm reticent to buy another used pair for fear of having the same issue, and I'm absolutely not paying the price they want for new ones.

Thanks!

Cross-post from Pelican. Excellent hard top for sale. Local pick up in Western NY.
Can deliver to Watkins Glen.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-boxster-cayman-996-997-parts-sale-wanted/1194950-986-boxster-hard-top.html

Quick history. I've had the car 12 years, put 50K miles on it. Had the trans rebuilt, security module replaced, etc. over the years. It's been running perfectly with nothing but gas, oil, tires and pads for the last few years.

So after being fine for ages, I had some stalling and non restarting when hot. New CPS and MAF element, and everything was perfect. After this work, I cleared all codes so I'd know if anything happened. Then I left the car parked outside, just once, and it rained. Now it's only running on 5 cylinders, and I need help with diagnosis.

Full disclosure. Years ago the soft top drains blocked, water got into the cabin and the first I knew was when there was so much water I get wet shoes through 1 1/2" foam and carpet. That cost big time for a used (old one was not repairable) security module, and I seem to recall the DME had to be repaird, but I"m not sure now.

So, the misfire starts. As I'd recently done the CPS and MAF, I checked those connections and anything in the vicinity, since I figured maybe I hadn't fully clicked something home and it had now partially come loose. Nope.

I read the codes with my Foxwell knock off Duramtric tool and had:

P0300 - Misfire detected
P1301 - Misfire cyl 1
P1319 - Refer to service manual - emission-relevant cylinder misfire
P1313 - Refer to service manual - Misfire Cylinder 1 (Emission Relevant)

In the past, I think I had DME code 22, which I think is incorrect load from DME to the tiptronic DME. I assumed this was related to the MAF, but I'm mentioning it here for completeness.

So I did the normal things. Swap the coil pack between 1 and 2. Nope, still on cyl 1. I also swapped spark plugs between 1 and 2 just in case. Nope. At the same time, I was obviously checking for moisture anywhere and cleaning things. Nothing.

I have pulled up the carpet under/behing the seat, and there's no moisture or evidence of any having been there. So I don't think it's that. Note. I know the drains are blocked again, possibly permanently, as we have a magnolia tree and those effing leaves have got in there and I can't clear them with air or trying to use stainless steel wire in a drill as a snake - hence I always park it inside... except this once.

So, I need diagnosis help from those who know these brilliant little infuriating pieces of poopoo!

I decided to delete my center cubby without springing for the GT3 panel, I was going to take it all apart and figure out a DIY solution (composite or 3D printed), but then I saw that these side panels were separate! A little peeling and hacking did the trick to clean up the job.

Somewhat unfinished work in progress.

You'll need:

1. Upholstery adhesive (I used some headliner adhesive I had laying around)
2. A drill (optional but helpful)
3. A hacksaw
4. Scissors
5. Carpet (or some old old black jeans if you're broke)
6. The small panel to bridge the gap in front of the shifter boot (I plan to replace the peeling vinyl boot with a full-length leather one instead)

First, uninstall the original cubby following the normal procedure, remove its bottom bracket and ditch all the little orange screw tabs along with it, as they tend to rattle.

This process will require you to remove the side panels. Keep them off, as they'll be undergoing some surgery, and that's what we'll be detailing here.

First, the problem: The edge of the panels is unfinished and ugly.



Before peeling back the carpet, mark where you'll cut the plastic.



I used the mounting tabs and other lines of the panel as guides.

The horizontal line follows there the edge of the panel is level under the shifter, and the diagonal one is defined by the rectangular holes and the cross-shaped rib that formerly sat up against the cubby. I recommend drilling a hole where the two lines meet, being careful NOT to go through the carpet. The hole's job is to make the corner round and smooth where the two saw cuts meet, and it also allows us to feel that point through the soft carpet.

Mark another line bisecting the two existing lines' angles. We'll cut the carpet along that line, from the edge of the panel to the hole we drilled. This will allow us to peel the carpet back and to fold it over the edges later. The horizontal cut can be done later, its job is to make it so that the carpet doesn't overlap with the bottom on the finished product. I cut it early, and got a classic case of "measure once, cut twice".



Once you've cut the carpet, peel it back carefully all the way past the marker lines and the drilled hole. At some spots, the glue will try to pluck the roots of the shag pile, so proceed slowly and free any errant fibers by scraping along the plastic with a knife.

Then grab a hacksaw and go to town. Make sure to hold the carpet back to ensure the saw doesn't rip it up. If needed, peel it back a little more. We're still going to add glue, so there's no loss in peeling back to far.



Then fold down the carpet and trim as needed. Note that the two mounting tabs need to be unimpeded, and you'll get a better fit if the carpet on the bottom doesn't overlap.





Lay it flat again, apply your upholstery adhesive of choice and gently fold the carpet over the edge of the plastic panel. Follow all instructions and warnings on the can. Reinstall the panels into the car, and you've finished every step that involves desecrating an OEM Porsche part.



Add a filler panel, I recommend matching carpet, but I'm cheap and used some fabric scraps. Measure the gap you end up with for your filler, feel free to back it with some form of stiff material like tupperware or the flat part of a 5-quart oil bottle. You might as well, since you bought a whole can of upholstery glue.



The gap between the panels makes for a pretty handy storage space, I ended up putting a tissue box in there that had been previously sitting in the passenger footwell.



Up next I'll be getting some real carpet for the gap, making a black fabric pouch to hold a stack of un-boxed tissues in a less intrusive way, and sewing a new shifter boot that covers that gap in the front of the center console. I'll post the progress on those jobs as I buy the materials and get around to doing them.

Hi,

maybe someone with a UK RHD car and Piwis experience can chime in.

I have to setup a M534 for a 986 UK RHD car.

There is no country coding for UK in Piwis. But there are variants for AUS and Japan RHD markets.

So i did setup the M534 as a RdW car, but i'm not shure if that is correct, as usually these cars are all LHD,

Would be nice, if anybody from the UK can solve that question,

Thanks in advance
Markus

Seems like a few months ago people were still complaining.

So, this is a five chain engine, for sure.
I thought all five-chain engines had cable-gas and DME 5.2. Can the 7.2 DME also run the five-chain engines or is something going on here? :confused:

Help!

I have a 2002 Porsche Boxter S, whose engine was rebuilt in 2020 by Flat Six Innovations (Stage 1, 2.6L) and now has approximately 25,000 miles (19,000 on my ownership) on the rebuild.

In early June I took a 2,500 mi trip, and the car ran perfectly, but used about 1qt of 5w40 per 1000 miles. Jake Raby assures me that this is normal for his builds with low tension rings.

Late in June I did my first track weekend in the 986, but during the last session I had poor throttle response and the check engine light came on. Durametric showed “Misfire, Cyl. 1.” I then drove the 325 miles home.

I replaced the Sparkplug Tubes (Rauch Speigel and Porsche o-rings) and all six Sparkplug Connectors. Misfire issue resolved.

A few days later, I forgot to replace the oil cap and drove for few days with erratic idle. Replaced the cap and idle returned to normal.

The next morning billowing white smoke at startup! The car has never smoked at startup before.

The following morning, no smoke at startup and drove for a few days, but began to notice tailpipe smoke under hard acceleration (4,500-6,500rpms. I thought that oil may have been sucked into the intake manifold when the cap was missing and would clear up in a few days.

I Reached out to Flat Six and they thought it was probably a falling AOS, even though a manometer test was within the normal range.

I replaced the 6 year old AOS with a genuine Porsche model. Manometer test good!

Zero smoke at startup, but the car is still smoking under hard acceleration. The puff of smoke begins at about 4,500 rpms, but dissipates if I shift or hold the rpms steady and today, after monitoring the smoke at rpm, there was a hesitation in throttle response. I ended the drive and drove home, keeping the keeping the rpms below 3K and the hesitation stopped.

And finally, here’s the kicker, the oil consumption has gone way up! Like a quart per 100-200miles, though I’m not sure how accurate of my measuring. I have absolutely no oil leaks! Every morning I add .2L-.4L but the oil gauge won’t budge off of the bottom mark.

I do all of the work on this car, but I'm baffled and sickened by this problem. Thanks for your help.