My 2004 986 just had the combination turn signal switch failed and I'm looking for a good replacement unit. I need the (4) stalk switch.

Thanks,
Anthony

74mm throttle body (cable) for 986 Boxster. Ex cond. $300 plus shipping.
Bill

Looking for a gently used set of 6 speed shift cables (OEM, Numeric Racing, Function First). Please let me know what you've got. thanks!

Here she is. it's a 2001 5 speed and her name is Ruby.

For about the last year I have thought there is something wrong with either my throw out bearing, wheel or suspension. I would get a clunk when shifting into second or a clunk when turning sharp at low speed. The car was also a bit jerky after shifts. After some recent research I pretty much figured it had to be the mount and turns out I was right. Also those who say you can do this job with ramps is a filthy liar 😂

I stopped myself just before the point of no return and took my car to my buddys that’s has a small lift

The mount had completely come apart, I ended up putting the 987 mount in and the car feels new again 😮****💨

I can never get pictures to work when posting mobile so this is the best you get 😅

https://imgur.com/a/5wumFxd

For about the last year I have thought there is something wrong with either my throw out bearing, wheel or suspension. I would get a clunk when shifting into second or a clunk when turning sharp at low speed. The car was also a bit jerky after shifts. After some recent research I pretty much figured it had to be the mount and turns out I was right. Also those who say you can do this job with ramps is a filthy liar 😂

I stopped myself just before the point of no return and took my car to my buddys that’s has a small lift.
https://imgur.com/a/5wumFxd

Hi all,
It has been a while since I had a problem that was puzzling. My 2001 Boxster S suddenly developed a misfire and flashing CEL. I read the codes and found it is a P0343 code, indicating a probable wiring fault. I followed the recommended testing procedure and found 12V at the connector with ignition on but engine not running. Testing the wiring from the camshaft sensor connector to the other end of the disconnected harness at the DME showed no continuity. So far the testing indicates it's a short in the wiring that I need to correct.

Here's where it becomes somewhat less clear to me. With the harness disconnected from the DME, I checked for voltage on the DME output pin (on the DME itself). With the ignition on, there was 12V on pin 20. There was no voltage at pin 19 (camshaft position sensor 2).

Now I am confused because the wiring test indicates a short in the wiring but I read contradictory information whether it may be normal to find 12V at pin 20 on certain Boxsters or that the DME could have developed an internal fault.

The car has been owned by my brother or me since 2005. I know the wiring has never been hacked nor are there any add-ons to the car. I replaced the coolant reservoir and oil filler tube (on the engine) a week before the camshaft sensor fault appeared and moved the wiring harness out of the way while doing that job. So that makes it quite possible that a wire broke or chafed during that job.

I suppose the next step is to replace the shorted wire and see if it works. If anyone has experience with the issue, especially whether there may be 12V at pin 20 on the DME, I would appreciate the input. Apologies for the length, but I wanted to present as much relevant information as I can.

Thanks, Greg

My " new car".
It's a 2001 5 speed.

Orient Red 2001 base 5 speed.

I'm wanting to convert my frunk release to a manual lever, has anyone done this?
I'm thinking some type of bike brake cable and a lever, I replaced my frunk release mechanism, it worked twice no does not release the hood, I hear the mechanism pulling when I push the button but the stays firmly locked.
The emergency release cable came off when I pulled on it.
So right now I have no idea how to even get into it.

Gave a passing thought to race car type hood pins and bypassing the latch altogether!

My 986 didn’t have a front plate when I bought it. I bought the mounting spacers from Pelican but I haven’t figured out what screws to use so they mount tightly. Any help?

Edit: With the help of AI I was able to determine the right screws. No thanks to PP’s search function or product description.

While changing light bulbs on my instrument cluster I found this icon between the airbag and top warning lights (there was no bulb installed so I had to put a light underneath to get the picture, which explains the poor quality). Was an ejection seat an option? If not what is this symbol supposed to mean?



If the option was available how does one check that it is installed and how is it activated?

Hey all! I've been slowly taking better care of my neglected boxster and I think its time to tackle the head unit.

I currently have an inexpensive double din unit in my denter console that I bought from China, and its really uninspiring. The Android Auto works fine, but the display has zero anti-glare so when I'm driving with the top down (as I usually do) I can't see a damn thing. This means my navigation is useless, my media control is abysmal, and overall I'm having a poor experience which has been searching for an upgrade.

In a perfect world I would like something that looks OEMish, something visually consistent with the rest of the interior. I also want at least a few physical buttons for things like music control (volume, forward, bac, etc.). I also NEED to be able to see the display on a sunny day, with the top down, and my polarized glasses on.

Anyone have an idea of it this Holy grail product exists?

My 2000 S had pixels in n the center LCD screen so I replaced all 3 screens and all seemed to be good until I drove the car. The tach reads (mostly?) correct at start up, but every time I accelerate it moves slowly up about 2K until it top out at the end of the range then it will stay there. I assume I damaged something on the circuit board during the repair but before I bought a used replacement I thought I would check here. I triple checked the connections and they are all good.

Hi all,

Trying to diagnose a noise on my 2000 S (~42k miles, manual). When the engine is coasting down I get a raspy/sucking/grinding noise. From inside the car it sounded like brake pads slightly dragging over the rotors but I also get it when the car is stationary.

If I rev up to ~4k RPM and take my foot off the gas, there's a slight pause and then the noise starts until RPMs fall. It is not present at idle. Most noticeable when in 2nd gear and coming to a stop, but doesn't matter if the clutch is in our out or which gear. The slightest touch of the throttle makes the noise instantly go away. Half a millimeter in and it's gone. It's also not present on a cold start but appears relatively quickly as the engine warms.

Because of that brief pause before the noise starts I assumed one of the clutched pulleys on the engine - I replaced the alternator pulley which *had* failed, and that solved some belt squeal I was getting when doing 3-point turns, but did not fix this noise. The AC compressor pulley feels OK and clutches on/off with the climate control button. All other pulleys feel good.

IMS has been done, and due to the relatively low miles I'm hoping nothing mechanical. Otherwise the car runs beautifully. The fact that it immediately cuts off if I tap the throttle even the slightest bit and that re-snorkeling the car made it much quieter has me leaning towards some weird intake/throttle body/PCV system noise but I'm not sure what to check next.

If relevant, the car has an aftermarket exhaust and resonated midpipes but stock headers/cats.

Any thoughts? Here's a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/wvFSzaEDqjU?feature=share