2000 Boxster S brakes parts

[bill3000]

I have a 2000 Boxster S that is failing inspection due to bad rotors and pads. Due to some minor body issues, it isn't worth much. Therefore, it isn't worth paying $3k+ for a shop to install Porsche parts. I don't track it, so I'm looking for street parts, but I'm not really in the culture to know what to buy.

I was hoping for OEM SHW rotors, but the lore here and my online searching indicate they're hard to get. So I'm looking at the Pelican-recommended Rennlines. The past few months of squeaking brakes have me looking at Akebono ceramic pads, and possibly braided hoses to stiffen their response.

I don't want to spend extravagantly, but I want decent parts/receipts, in case I ever decide to sell the vehicle. Do these seem like reasonable choices, or should I look for cheaper alternatives?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENCS137.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENCS134.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PEL996SSDOT1.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/98635293911.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/EUR917.htm

[BrakeExpert]

Those prices are stupid, 3 grand for brakes, you know i bought my last boxster for 2900$, it needed some work like a top but it ran.

I'd do some more homework into the basics of brakes. A cursory look on rockauto showed:

DYNAMIC FRICTION 452402037 for just under 300$ before shipping, and thats all 4 corners with cross-drilled rotors, and you can go cheaper. The brakes on a boxster are nothing special, they can be changed with normal hand tools.

If you're concerned with upgrading, as I tell everyone, your tires are the only part of your car that touches the road, so your "ultimate" brake upgrade is tires, since that's always the final limiting factor. Now if you're focused on pedal-feel, using ceramic pads on "normal" iron rotors tends to give a direct feel, good even in cold weather, as you mentioned this wont be tracked. Stainless lines do give a more responsive brake pedal feedback, lots of people like them, that's worth looking into, my only suggestion is to get those without the single plastic coating, IE get rubber or something over the stainless, as the plastic tends to get hard and crack on cheaper brands like Russell (learned this years ago). You can lookup rotors, I for one have always said solid discs (over drilled and/or slotted) are best bang for your buck, the slotted ones will wear pads sooner and only are really needed on under-braked vehicles like older trucks, the 986 I would consider having good brakes for its size and weight. Cross drilling also not needed, Porsche claim they net more consistent lap times on a wet track, but on a road car, cool, but not needed (I still hear people talk about the word 'gassing' which makes me laugh.) Your brake pad choice is going to be a bigger factor in longevity and stopping grip than rotors, so go with cheap rotors, good pads, and with the money you save, put it into better tires.

[Gilles]

This is one example.. (remove the spaces)

rockauto
.com/en/moreinfo.php?
pk=16247805&cc=1364396&pt=13824&jsn=1082


If you but a Motive Power Bleeder Tool (+/- $60), you should be able to do it in one afternoon and have everything new :-)

There are many DYI videos that show you how to do it properly, for less than $500 :-)

.

[JayG]

Powerstop ceramic pads and Meyle rotors are a very good street package and not too $. Amazon sells both . Also EBC REDs are a good street pad.. I used the rotors on my 2004 S and did a fair bit of AX and track on them., I used the powerstop pads DD street and even sometimes for AX and other pads for the track. Brakes are an easy DIY and +1 on a Motive power bleeder

[BrakeExpert]

Or if you run a clear hose through your strut into a bottle, you can do it yourself without a tool or partner.